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Food

INDIA,

123 Dorrance St., Providence, (278-2000).

Amid the warm dark wood ambiance of India is a restaurant that is personal, endearing, and good. The bar serves Indian specialties, such as Kingfisher Beer and a cream sherry. Among the appetizers, the aloo paratha, a pancake of grilled whole-wheat bread stuffed with mashed potatoes and cilantro, confirmed our belief that no cuisine does better by potatoes than Indian. Our entrees, a "veggie mango" ($6.95) and a mixed kabobs platter ($14.95), were sweetly seasoned and well marinated, respectively. The desserts at India are equally impressive. The shahi kheer ($1.95) is a sweet cardamomed rice pudding heavy on the almond slices. The gulab jamun ($2.50) is a golf ball-sized piece of fried dough soaked in honey and oris water. For an extra dollar, a scoop of mango Ben & Jerry's comes with it. The whole experience is enough to make you wonder whether what they were really doing in the Kama Sutra was sublimating over food.

Full review.








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